Beijing is a big city

I flew to Beijing today to attend a conference at the Embassy (boy, are my arms tired!). The flight took about 90 minutes. After I arrived in Beijing, it took me about 70 minutes to get from the airport to my hotel. Traffic was terrible.

This is the view from my hotel window. Note the long line of cars along the road. Traffic is moving, but it’s moving very slowly.

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This evening, I had a tutorial session with my Chinese teacher, who is in Washington DC. It seems that Skype is blocked in China, and the VPN doesn’t work very well in my hotel. We managed to connect and have our session, but it was a little painful. My teacher is really good; she gives me constructive feedback on my writing, which is what I really need. I’m benefiting a lot from this class.

I’m also really looking forward to the conference tomorrow. People from all of the five consulates in China, as well as from the embassy, will meet to discuss some visa issues that we all face. It will be good to build some consensus among consulates, as well as get some direction from some more experienced officers.

Have I mentioned lately how much I like my job? I really do. Although I am temporarily separated from my family, which isn’t fun, this job is interesting, stimulating, and rewarding.

Life is good.

Beijing

Last week I went to Beijing, to spend a few days in the embassy. I am one of the last groups of new arrivals to country that get to do “consultations” in the embassy. It seems that the program is being phased out in favor of more long-term swaps.

This was another first for me: my first time to go to Beijing. The famous air pollution index was actually low when I was there: only dangerous (instead of hazardous, poisonous, or apocalyoptic).

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On a clear day, you can see… well, forget it. There are no clear days in Beijing.

The highlights of my visit were seeing the different ways that things are done in the embassy’s Consular section, and talking with my counterparts. I also got to stand “on the line” and adjudicate visa applications for a few hours. There is a different quality of applicants in Beijing; I had to adjust my assumptions about the intentions of people who wanted visas to go to the U.S.

Another big surprise of the visit was running into someone who I worked with when I was a Fulbright scholar in Taiwan. One of the Engligh Teaching Assistants went on to join the foreign service, and happened to be posted to China at the same time as I was. She joined a few years before I did, and has been in China for about a year already. Neither one of us knew that the other was in the foreign service, and so running into each other in the embassy was a huge surprise for both of us!

I had a free morning before I had to return to Shenyang, so I went to Tiananmen Square and wandered around.

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Proof that I was there.

Beijing’s great in a lot of ways. There is a lot going on, there are a lot of cultural resources there, and lot of western food is available. The embassy is about 10 times the size of the Consulate in Shenyang, and because it’s the embassy, of course there’s a lot of high-level activity there.

But I feel like there are more opportunities for me to do a greater range of things in Shenyang. For example, this week the Consulate is celebrating its 30th anniversary. I get to be involved in the planning for the event, and to be there to rub elbows with the VIPs. I don’t think that I’d be able to be involved at that level in a similar event in Beijing.

Yet another reason that I’m glad I’m in Shenyang.

Life is good.

Ego+Temper=Undiplomatic Diplomat

The other day I had to refuse a visa applicant who became belligerent upon receiving my refusal. He kept demanding to know why he was refused, and would not accept the standard reason that we give.

Normally in this situation, we tell the applicant that the visa interview is over, we cannot reverse our decision, and although he is welcome to apply again, he is not qualified for a visa today. We then call the next applicant, thereby making it clear to the applicant that the interview is over. The applicant usually gets the message, and leaves.

This time, though, the applicant refused to leave, and continued to badger me for a reason why he was refused. This sometimes happens. Some applicants are so intent I’m going to America that they simply do not except a refusal. Usually we can defuse the situation by telling the applicant that it’s not a permanent refusal, they can apply again in the future. That usually works for me.

For some reason though, this applicant became hot under the collar, and lashed out at me verbally. This irritated me, and against my better judgment, I engaged him.

I have two serious personality flaws that contributed to what happened next. The first flaw is that when somebody gets in my face, I tend to get right back into theirs. This is not a good personality trait for a diplomat to have. We are supposed to work through conflicts with reason and calm, not slug them out with emotional reactions. However, when someone gets angry with me and I don’t believe that they have good reason to do so, I tend to get angry right back at them. This is a personality flaw that I am trying to overcome. However, it’s pretty well ingrained into my psyche, and it’s hard to get rid of something so deeply a part of my personality.

The second personality flaw is a healthy ego. I am confident in my ability to use Chinese in a variety of situations, even situations that I probably should not engage in. I feel that I have the language skills to engage in debate and argument, and I am egotistical enough to enter into an argument, even when doing so is unwise.

In this situation, those two flaws combined to create a bad situation. My frustrated and unhappy applicant was demanding an explanation, and I was retorting back to him that I had given him an explanation, but he just happened not to like the explanation that was given to him. He raised his voice, I raised my voice, and eventually I told him that he had to leave, or I would call the security guard to escort him out of the Consulate, which I soon had to do.

I should also add that our interview windows are on one side of the main office which everybody sits in, so all of my coworkers were witnesses to this embarrassing outburst. I later apologized to everybody, especially my boss, for causing a scene.

We frequently get this kind of reaction from applicants, but I think that when they encounter it, most of my coworkers have handled the situation better than I did that day.

So I have yet another set of things to work on: curbing my temper and checking my ego.

Eventually, I think that I will be a good diplomat. This incident shows that I still have some work to do, however.

Day of Service

The Consulate closed for the day on September 11, and all employees, both foreign service officers and locally engaged staff, and engaged in various service projects in the city.

I was on the “urban beautification” team, which meant that I picked up trash along the canal. If you know anything about big cities, you can guess that there was a very big beautification potential along the canal.

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Several local people were very curious about a bunch of foreigners picking up trash. More than one photo was taken with a cell phone. One guy offered to notify the media. We all had a good laugh at that offer. We can’t imagine that the local non-free press would report that foreigners were doing selfless service projects.

It’s fair to ask that if we weren’t getting local press coverage, is it worth it to engage in these service projects? I think the answer is yes, for two reasons. First, even though the media wouldn’t report on it, as we were out there working, we interacted with several people. When asked who we were and what we were doing, we simply said that we were US diplomats, and we were trying to make the city looked better. I saw a lot of thumbs-up gestures, and heard some approving comments. We did a lot of direct diplomacy that day. For those of us whose job it is to try to further international understanding and prevent wars, this was a big win.

The second reason why this was a worthwhile activity is that service is an appropriate way to remember the people who were murdered on 9/11. Doing something positive for the public good affirms who Americans are as a people, and exemplifies why diplomats are sent to live in other countries.

I spout and pontificate in Harbin

The Harbin Daily newspaper put on an informational event on studying abroad in the U.S., and invited speakers from the Consulate to speak. The Public Affairs section sent an officer to talk about higher education in the U.S., and I offered to represent the Consular section to talk about selecting a school and student visas. Foolishly, the newspaper and our P.A. section agreed to invite me.

The editor of the newspaper wanted a photo op. I dominated the conversation as usual.

The editor of the newspaper wanted a photo op. I dominated the conversation, as usual.
The poor guy barely got a word in.

When the public affairs officer was talking, I could barely keep in my seat.

When the public affairs officer was talking, I could barely keep in my seat. I bit my tongue while she presented.

I could tell the audience was dreading the time when I would start speaking.

I could tell the audience was dreading the time when I would start speaking.

Droning on and on.

Droning on and on.

The funny thing was, the audience didn’t seem to notice how boring I was, and the P.A. officer must have been napping, because she made up some lie about how well my presentation was received. Obviously, she didn’t pay attention. The newspaper editor was also very polite and told a whopper about how the audience enjoyed the Q&A part of the presentation. Even though nobody walked out during my presentation, I could tell that they couldn’t wait for me to leave. They clapped and clapped as we walked out of the hall, I’m sure it was because they were relieved that they could finally go home.

It was a total disaster. I can’t wait for the next opportunity to inflict myself onto people.

 

My life is not boring

Today was training day. The last Wednesday of every month is training day in the consular section. Today, we did some exercises involving the online visa application process, and reviewed the online application that all of the applicants have to complete in order to start applying for a visa.

After that exercise, I had to leave the training room and go to a welcome reception for the new section chief. We invited several local government officials with whom we interact on a regular basis. I was invited to the reception because my outreach activities have me interacting with these local officials, and the section chief thought it would be useful if I met them in person. We had a nice lunch, I hobnobbed with the government officials, and generally had a very nice time.

After the reception was over, we returned to the training activities. First, we visited the bank that we contracted with to ship passports back to applicants after their visas have been printed. We got to see the process of them sorting and accepting passports, and got to ask them questions about the process. It was pretty interesting.

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In the afternoon, we did some teambuilding activities. I was still wearing my suit from the lunch reception, so I did the teambuilding activities in business attire. Unfortunately for me, the team building activity was bowling. If you have never seen a grown man bowl in a suit before, just imagine a grown man bowling in a suit, and you have a pretty good picture about what I looked like. My personal quest is to never look ridiculous, and I’m afraid that I failed in that effort today. Oh, well.

After training day was over, I went back home, and hit the gym. I’m afraid that I put on several pounds since coming to Shenyang, largely due to the good local beer, so I have been trying to shed that extra weight. After working out, I got a text message from one of the Americans that I met at the reception this noon, and went out to meet him to have a drink. He has been in China for several years, and has some interesting insights into life in China and interacting with the local people. He also lives in a town about an hour north of Shenyang, doesn’t get around very much. I suspect he was hungry for some conversation with another native speaker of English.

Then I rode my bike home and talked with my wife via video conferencing.

Tomorrow we will resume our regular schedule of visa interviews and various paperwork. Life is not, repeat not, boring.

I am wounded

A small piece of metal protrudes from the frame in one of the windows where we conduct visa interviews. There is a sharp edge on this piece of metal. This morning, as I was reaching for an applicant’s passport, I scraped a finger against the sharp edge of the metal, and got a tiny, little boo-boo.

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I didn’t think anything about this little boo-boo, and continued my morning interviews as usual. This afternoon, I realized that I still hadn’t treated this little boo-boo, and I looked around for a first aid kit in the office. I really only wanted a bandage to keep it clean.

Alice, the LES (locally-engaged staff) of king-fu melon fame, helped me find the office’s first aid kit, which was conveniently locked. I really hope that in the event I have a heart attack, this first aid kit contains a defibrillator which can bring me back to life. That’s probably wishful thinking, though, because it did not contain a Band-Aid.

Alice took another look at my boo-boo, pronounced it a Very Serious Wound, and sent me to the Consulate’s nurse, Nurse Nancy.

One of the reasons that we get a hardship differential for serving in Shenyang is that the quality of medical care in the city is not up to American standards. We have a full-time nurse in the consulate, nurse Nancy. She’s great.

I think that nurse Nancy tries to single-handedly make up for the overall poor quality of medical care in the city by providing overly great medical care, as best she can.

I ventured into nurse Nancy’s basement clinic. I showed her my boo-boo. I asked for a Band-Aid.

She looked at my gaping wound, gasped in horror, and sprang into action. “It’s infected!” she shrieked, and grabbed my wrist with one hand, reaching for medicine with the other hand.

First came a thorough bath of hydrogen peroxide, followed by a douse of iodine, a generous slather of antibiotic cream, and then a tightly wrapped Band-Aid.

I doubt that even the Ebola virus could have survived the treatment that nurse Nancy gave to my Very Serious Wound.

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She didn’t venture to provide a prognosis, but I am fairly optimistic that I will survive this Very Serious Wound.

A holiday, a milestone, and a park

Yesterday, August 8, was Chinese Fathers’s Day. It’s the 8th day of the 8th month, and when you say 88 in Chinese, it sounds like 爸爸 (“Baba”), which means “Dad” in Chinese. Both of my sons called and wished me happy Father’s Day. I have great kids.

Today, August 9, marks three months since I arrived in China. That’s 1/4 of a year and 1/8 of the length of my tour here. In some ways the time has been passing quickly. Work is busy and interesting, I’m learning a lot and I feel that I’m making a contribution. At the same time, being separated from my family is hard.

This morning I snuck into the Hyatt hotel in town. The hotel is right next to a park. Here’s a view of the park from the 25th floor:

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